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Food truck scheme hard to stomach after glory days of Hong Kong’s street hawkers

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When I arrived in Hong Kong just shy of quarter of a century ago, the city literally reeked of street food. From the now outlawed stinky tofu – the powerful stench of which I swear, if condensed and bottled, could be sold as a chemical weapon – to more fishball stalls than you could shake a spiky stick at, the Fragrant Harbour was, from a culinary point of view, just that. A walk down pretty much any street in those days was nothing short of a full-frontal attack on my...

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